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30 - London Chefs and Their view on the Year Ahead

 

London restaurants were hurt last week when snow disrupted transport and led as many as half the customers to cancel at establishments such as Pied a Terre.

What's the picture for the rest of the year as the industry adapts to the slowdown in business dining and the squeeze on personal spending that came with recession? I spoke to 30 chefs and restaurateurs. Here's what they had to say.

Tom Aikens (Tom Aikens): I don't expect things to change much. We'll continue to listen to our customers and provide a quality product, delivered with great service and good value.

Jason Atherton (Maze): The start of the year is going to be tough. It's a question of keeping costs down and offering value. We won't see anything like a couple of years ago.

Sat Bains (Restaurant Sat Bains): The scene for the industry is a cautious and possibly slow start to the year.

Will Beckett (Hawksmoor): 2010 will be exciting for new openings. It's a good time to get into the industry as the money needed to get started is a bit less.

Antonin Bonnet (The Greenhouse): 2010 will be a harsher year, business wise. Simplicity is the key for everybody, with food being less fussy and more to the point.

Claude Bosi (Hibiscus): I expect the first six months of 2010 to be tough. The run-up to Christmas was excellent, but the reality is that we have another challenging year ahead of us.

Richard Corrigan (Corrigan’s Mayfair): The first quarter may be flat as a lot of plastic is spent on high-street sales. However, with the low pound, London will thrive.

Anthony Demetre (Arbutus): We're not out of the woods yet. There's a lot happening in the world of finance and politics. People will still be searching for value for money.

Stuart Gillies (Boxwood Cafe): Businesses trimmed a lot of costs last year and won't want to change too much until there are more signs of recovery.

Brett Graham (The Ledbury): The outlook is for a strong year. Over the past five to six months, trade has been strong and January looks much healthier than last year.

Des Gunewardena (Coq d'Argent/D&D London): For the first half, individuals will continue to eat out while companies cut back. In the second, with a new U.K. government and new policies, anything could happen

Skye Gyngell (Petersham Nurseries): People are looking for a more informal way of eating. Price is a consideration. I'd like more of the hole-in-the-wall, family-run restaurants.

Henry Harris (Racine): I think there's going to be a real improvement. December was 25 percent better than any December in seven years. I see beef as a more important part of menus.

Sam Hart (Barrafina): I see more places offering value for money, a la Polpo, with stripped-down interiors. We finished the year strongly and it looks like that might continue.

Mark Hix (Hix): People are going to go down a much simpler, more accessible route. That's the key.

Philip Howard (The Square):We're all apprehensive but London is a huge place, and we should be OK. The novelty factor for diners experimenting with molecular gastronomy is gone.

Pierre Koffmann (ex-Tante Claire): Restaurants are always complaining. It's like farmers. All the people I know are doing well. A bit of a recession isn't a bad thing.

Jeremy Lee (Blueprint Cafe): It's a good time for the fledglings. There are stirrings of that kind of movement, and forget recession. It's not fun but it's not our fault.

Rowley Leigh (Le Cafe Anglais): I think things will get easier than in 2009 but we might just feel like the band on the Titanic.

Francesco Mazzei (L'Anima): We were all so happy before Christmas because it was fantastic. But it will take a long time to recover. Companies are still controlling expenses.

Thomasina Miers (Wahaca): Restaurants can expect more tightening of belts this year, especially when tax rises hit home and household incomes feel the bite.

Russell Norman (Polpo): For those who keep things simple, business as usual. Places that rely on expense accounts will fare less well. We'll see the demise of molecular gastronomy.

Shane Osborn (Pied a Terre): Toward year end, business will start booming. I like what has been happening over the past year, with Bocca di Lupo, Terroirs, Polpo and Salt Yard.

Gary Rhodes (Rhodes Twenty Four): It's exciting that every year there can be something new, but we also hold on to good hearty fare. I hope business picks up, especially lunch.

Michel Roux Jr. (Le Gavroche): The good restaurants that offer value for money and are consistent will do well. We've had an extraordinarily good year but many will go down.

Mitch Tonks (Seahorse): It's been a good year for London restaurants, with Hix, Bocca di Lupo and Terroirs all serving serious food in a relaxed way. I hope this becomes the norm.

Marcus Wareing (Marcus Wareing): It may be tougher, with tax rises and higher interest rates people having less money in their pockets, particularly after the U.K. election. But I can see things picking up in the run-up to Christmas.

Tristan Welch (Launceston Place): I'm hoping it will be a gradual return to the good times. For us, business continues to be good and the early signs are that we are doing OK.

Ed Wilson (Terroirs): Restaurants (and wine bars) offering value should thrive and we'll see more openings of similar concepts like Polpo, which are hitting the mark.

Antony Worrall Thompson (Kew Grill): The best places like the Wolseley and the Ivy will be full but they won't have the waiting lists. We'll see casualties. I've been one.

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